Camino del Norte

Before you set off

Sleep here the night before you set off. Get your credential at the Jakobi albergue (afternoons, even if you're not staying) or at the San Gabriel parish of the Padres Pasionistas, Calle Estación 24, Tuesday to Sunday 9:00 to 12:30. By the town hall the Norte goes down Calle Fueros; the Camino Vasco del Interior carries straight on up Calle Mayor. Gronze also gives an optional two-day start from Bayonne.

Stage 1 of 36

Summer prices are high and there's no pilgrim albergue: walkers reported dorm beds at €46 to €98 on June 2026 weekends, so book ahead. Gronze suggests stopping at Pasai Donibane, 10.5 miles in. The little boat across the harbour to Pasai San Pedro runs every few minutes all year for about €2. There are no bars for 7.2 miles between the Guadalupe sanctuary and Pasaia. Another directory still listed Ondarreta as open in October 2026, so it may be worth a call.

From Irún: 15.3 miles · 2,070 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 2 of 36

Gronze suggests Orio, 9.8 miles in, if you want a shorter day. There are almost no fountains before Orio, and the descent into it is steep and slippery when wet. Zarautz is a surf town on a long beach, with the Gothic Santa María la Real and the Luzea tower in the old quarter.

From San Sebastián: 13.7 miles · 1,790 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 3 of 36

Three stiff climbs, the last up to Itziar, then a steep, knee-hard descent into Deba. Elorriaga, 7.9 miles in, has no food. With so few rooms, Deba fills in summer; Zumaia, 5.6 miles into the day, has three hotels.

From Zarautz, over the Gárate pass: 13.0 miles · 2,530 ft climbon Gronze

Or from Zarautz, through Getaria: 13.2 miles · climbing not given

Stage 4 of 36

Gronze calls this the loneliest stage of the Norte. After Olatz, 4.8 miles in, there's nothing until Markina, so carry food and fill up at every fountain. The Arno pass is the Norte's highest point in the Basque Country. From late October to mid-March both albergues are closed and Markina has no beds at all.

From Deba, over the Arno pass: 14.5 miles · 2,680 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 5 of 36

Stopping at Zenarruza splits the two days nicely, and Gronze praises its welcome, though the climb up to it is hard. In Gernika, the Casa de Juntas and its oak tree are free to visit, but book on the Bizkaia assembly's website. Try the alubias pintas and Gernika peppers.

From Markina-Xemein, through Zenarruza: 15.8 miles · 2,230 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 6 of 36

Gronze splits Gernika to Bilbao at Lezama, but outside June to September Lezama's albergue is shut. Then sleep at Larrabetzu, or walk the whole 19.1 miles to Bilbao, which ends with the climb over Monte Avril. The first 9.4 miles are muddy forest tracks with a very steep climb up Monte Billikario, and there's no bar until Larrabetzu.

From Gernika: 12.3 miles · 1,840 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 7 of 36

A short morning: up Monte Avril on the old paved road, then down 213 steps into the Casco Viejo, with the afternoon for the Guggenheim, the Ribera market and pintxos. The cathedral and San Antón church stamp credentials. Next morning, Gronze warns of frequent thefts in the San Francisco district on the way out and suggests Calle Autonomía instead.

From Lezama, over Monte Avril: 6.8 miles · 1,040 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 8 of 36

Most walkers take the flat riverside path, past the Guggenheim and across the Vizcaya Bridge, a UNESCO site whose gondola costs €0.60. The official route is 3.9 miles longer, with a hard climb and a grim finish through Barakaldo. If the day feels short, Gronze suggests going on to Pobeña, 7.3 miles further, whose albergue has 40 beds.

From Bilbao, official route through Barakaldo: 11.9 miles · 1,460 ft climbon Gronze

Or from Bilbao, along the river: 8.1 miles · 90 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 9 of 36

Castro's municipal albergue closed on 31 August 2026 for works, with no reopening date, though Gronze still listed it in October. From Pobeña a cliff path follows an old mining railway into Cantabria. At Ontón most walkers take the N-634 shoulder to Mioño, saving 4.2 miles; Gronze prefers the longer official route because the shoulder is so narrow.

From Portugalete, official route through Otañes: 19.9 miles · 1,530 ft climbon Gronze

Or from Portugalete, by the road shortcut from Ontón: 15.8 miles · climbing not given

Stage 10 of 36

Constant ups and downs. Crossing the N-634 after Cerdigo is dangerous: three fast lanes and no crossing. After Islares there's 1.5 miles on the road shoulder; staying on it to Iseca Vieja saves 3.5 miles, but Gronze advises against it. Laredo's Puebla Vieja and long Salvé beach fill up for the Batalla de Flores on the last Friday of August.

From Castro Urdiales: 19.0 miles · 2,340 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 11 of 36

Walk 2.5 miles along Laredo's beach to El Puntal for the boat to Santoña: €2.50, every 10 to 15 minutes from 9:00, from mid-March into the autumn. It doesn't run at dawn or in winter; then the signed inland route via Colindres and Gama is 2.5 miles longer, with cheap albergues at both. Güemes village and its two restaurants are 0.9 miles from the albergue.

From Laredo, by boat to Santoña: 17.8 miles · 1,000 ft climbon Gronze

Or from Laredo, inland via Colindres when the boat isn't running: 20.4 miles · climbing not given

Stage 12 of 36

A short day. From Galizano Gronze's route follows the clifftops to Loredo, 2.3 miles longer than the road but far nicer; some sandy stretches depend on the tide. From Somo, the boat across the bay takes about 20 minutes: Los Reginas, €4, or Alsa's year-round service since June 2026, €3.50. The cathedral and the albergue issue credentials. The old town, Centro Botín and El Sardinero beach make this a good place for a rest day.

From Güemes, by the cliffs and the Somo boat: 9.5 miles · 410 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 13 of 36

The second-longest day, mostly on pavement and roadsides. To split it, stop at Albergue Piedad in Boo de Piélagos, 8.1 miles in, or take the coastal train out of Santander past the suburbs. After the Saja bridge at Barreda, ignore painted shortcuts to Santillana along the road: Gronze says they're dangerous and misleading. Old-town restaurants are pricey. The Altamira museum and replica cave are 1.2 miles away.

From Santander, through Arce: 22.6 miles · 1,340 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 14 of 36

An easy day on minor roads. Comillas is expensive in high season and its one albergue has 28 beds; Cóbreces and Caborredondo are cheaper places to stop, and strong walkers go on 6.9 miles to San Vicente de la Barquera. Comillas has Gaudí's El Capricho and other modernista buildings.

From Santillana del Mar: 13.8 miles · 1,510 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 15 of 36

Colombres has no municipal albergue; one has been promised for years. In August, with the donation house shut and El Cantu full of groups, sleep in San Vicente or Unquera. After the Deva bridge into Asturias comes one of the steepest climbs on the Norte. The Camino Lebaniego turns off about 0.6 miles past Serdio. The blue Quinta Guadalupe houses the emigration museum.

From Comillas, through San Vicente de la Barquera: 17.4 miles · 1,740 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 16 of 36

Gronze strongly recommends the coastal path (red-and-white GR E-9 marks) from Pendueles instead of the official route beside the N-634; the distance is almost the same. The Arenillas blowholes spout only at high tide with a big swell. Llanes's restaurants are often packed in high season.

From Colombres, by the coastal path: 14.2 miles · 1,050 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 17 of 36

Long but mostly on dirt tracks with no big climbs. Gronze suggests splitting the day at Piñeres de Pría, 12.3 miles in; its parish albergue may fill with groups from mid-June to mid-August, and there's no bar. Ribadesella is booked solid for the Sella canoe race in early August. The Tito Bustillo cave needs booking ahead.

From Llanes: 18.6 miles · 1,090 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 18 of 36

An easy, mostly coastal day, with stretches on or across the N-632. The first open bar is probably at Berbes, 5.9 miles in. Gronze also lists longer days: Sebrayo's simple public albergue makes it 19.6 miles from Ribadesella. Colunga is known for fabes and cider, and the Jurassic museum is between Colunga and Lastres.

From Ribadesella: 12.5 miles · 1,120 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 19 of 36

A short inland day with almost no services, just a couple of vending machines. Villaviciosa is the capital of Asturian cider country. Next morning the Camino splits at Casquita, 2.3 miles out: straight on for Gijón, left for Oviedo and the Camino Primitivo.

From Colunga: 10.9 miles · 1,000 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 20 of 36

A hard day with two climbs, the Alto de la Cruz the steeper. Niévares has nothing; the first bar is at Peón, 9.4 miles in. From Deva, the Senda Verde de Peñafrancia is the nicer way into town. A 62-place municipal albergue at La Calzada is planned for Easter 2027. Gijón's beds go fast at weekends.

From Villaviciosa, over the Alto de la Cruz: 18.5 miles · 2,150 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 21 of 36

There are no services on the route until Tabaza, 10.5 miles in. Gronze calls the approach through Tabaza and Trasona, between motorways and steelworks, one of the least rewarding stretches of the Norte, with a nasty stretch on the AS-19 shoulder. Avilés's old town is well restored, and the Niemeyer centre is across the estuary.

From Gijón, over Monte Areo: 15.8 miles · 850 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 22 of 36

Since 2025 the official route goes through Piedras Blancas, with about 0.6 miles on the AS-320 with no shoulder. Gronze calls that very dangerous and recommends the San Martín de Laspra variant instead, about the same length. Take care in the narrow gap beside the railing on the N-632 bridge over the Nalón.

From Avilés: 13.2 miles · 1,800 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 23 of 36

A short day. The route skips Cudillero, one of Asturias's prettiest fishing villages, 1.1 miles down from El Pito. Mumayor has no services. Strong walkers can go on to Cadavedo, 21 miles from Muros, which Gronze calls very hard.

From Muros de Nalón: 9.5 miles · 1,430 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 24 of 36

Almost everyone takes the coastal Camín Real de las Ballotas, down into and out of seven small valleys. The mountain variant over the Sierra de Las Palancas is about the same length with 2,410 ft of climbing and no services: good weather and fit walkers only. Cadavedo's albergue fills easily, so the albergues at Novellana and Castañeras are worth knowing.

From Soto de Luiña, through the seven valleys: 11.5 miles · 1,910 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 25 of 36

A short, easy day with one stiff climb behind Hotel Canero. Gronze recommends sleeping in Luarca itself: see the clifftop cemetery, the La Atalaya lighthouse and chapel, and the fishing port.

From Cadavedo: 9.9 miles · 720 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 26 of 36

A long day that follows the N-634 in places; take care between the AS-37 crossing and the A-8 viaduct. The 5.6 miles from Villuir to Villapedre have no services. Gronze suggests Navia, 12.5 miles in, for a shorter day.

From Luarca, through Navia: 19.0 miles · 1,710 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 27 of 36

Gronze prefers the route through Tapia de Casariego, 0.7 miles longer, by beaches and cliffs. Tapia's small public albergue takes no bookings, and Gronze's own pages disagree on its size and season, so check. You enter Galicia over the Eo on the Puente de los Santos, on a narrow fenced walkway beside the motorway; from here the scallop shells point the other way. Many walkers visit Praia das Catedrais, about 6 miles away, which needs booking on some days.

From La Caridad, through Tol: 13.2 miles · 680 ft climbon Gronze

Or from La Caridad, through Tapia de Casariego: 13.9 miles · 600 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 28 of 36

Gronze's plan ends this day at Gondán, but Gondán's albergue and the next one at San Xusto de Cabarcos closed in 2021 and Gronze lists no beds there, so this plan goes on 4.1 miles to Lourenzá, as Gronze itself suggests if you leave Ribadeo early. The climbing figure is Gronze's for Ribadeo to Gondán; the last stretch adds a little. The main climb, about 850 ft over 3.1 miles, starts at A Ponte de Arante, 6.8 miles in, and bars are few. Lourenzá's Benedictine monastery church opens at 11:00.

From Ribadeo, through Gondán: 17.1 miles · over 1,980 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 29 of 36

A short morning over one climb, then the afternoon in one of Galicia's seven historic capitals: the cathedral, the Fonte Vella and the Álvaro Cunqueiro house-museum (€1 for pilgrims). Gronze's stage is Gondán to Mondoñedo; this is its last 5.6 miles. Strong walkers can go on to Abadín, 15.9 miles from Lourenzá. Ask at the tourist office under the cathedral arcades about the two ways out of town.

From Vilanova de Lourenzá: 5.6 miles · main climb about 650 fton Gronze

Stage 30 of 36

A climb from about 460 ft to 1,840 ft onto the Terra Chá plateau. The traditional route through the valleys goes a long way without a shop or bar. The shorter mountain variant, about 8 miles, is steeper, remote and often foggy: not for walking alone or in bad weather. When everything is full, the council usually opens the sports hall.

From Mondoñedo, by the valley route: 10.3 miles · 2,050 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 31 of 36

Few services: bars only near the N-634 crossings at Martiñán, 5.5 miles in, and O Campo do Cristo, where there's no pedestrian crossing. Try the San Simón da Costa smoked cheese.

From Abadín: 12.9 miles · 820 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 32 of 36

An easy day near the N-634 and A-8. At San Xoán de Alba, ignore the signed detour across the four-lane road, which Gronze calls absurd and dangerous. Because the next day is 24.7 miles, Gronze suggests pushing on past Baamonde: to A Lagoa (19.5 miles from Vilalba) or Miraz (20.8 miles).

From Vilalba: 11.5 miles · 690 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 33 of 36

Gronze's longest day, through empty, rolling country to the route's high point, about 2,330 ft and unsigned. Almost everyone splits it: at Miraz, 9.3 miles in, or at A Roxica or A Cabana, 15.4 to 15.8 miles in. There are no services for about 6 miles after Miraz. The As Cruces route is 4.8 miles shorter but has even fewer services. Out of season, beds along the way can shrink to one or two places, so check ahead.

From Baamonde, through Miraz: 24.7 miles · 1,970 ft climbon Gronze

Or from Baamonde, through As Cruces: 19.9 miles · 1,500 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 34 of 36

An easy day to the Camino Francés, where the crowds begin; as Gronze puts it, you lose intimacy and gain company. From here the public albergues fill early, so in summer think about booking private beds. A signed shortcut from Boimorto through Orxal goes straight to Lavacolla, skipping Arzúa and saving 5 miles. Arzúa is known for its cheese.

From Sobrado dos Monxes: 13.7 miles · 720 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 35 of 36

An easy Camino Francés day on forest tracks, with bars every few kilometres. O Pedrouzo sits just off the line: turn left at the N-547. Gronze suggests sleeping here so an early start reaches Santiago for the 12:00 pilgrim Mass. The names are confusing: O Pedrouzo is the main village of Arca parish in the O Pino municipality.

From Arzúa, on the Camino Francés: 12.0 miles · 1,150 ft climbon Gronze

Stage 36 of 36

Collect your Compostela at the Pilgrim Office, Rúa das Carretas 33: you need the last 100 km on foot with two stamps a day, and you should pre-register online. Pilgrim Masses are at 7:30, 9:30, 12:00 and 19:30; the botafumeiro was away for restoration in September 2026, and backpacks aren't allowed in the cathedral. Santiago charges a tourist tax of €1 to €2.50 a night, but not in Xunta albergues.

From O Pedrouzo, over Monte do Gozo: 12.1 miles · 1,040 ft climbon Gronze